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[00:00] Between the Black and Caspian Seas lies one of the most complicated places on Earth. Towering mountains, ancient kingdoms, dozens of languages, competing empires, and conflicts that still shape headlines today all meet in a region that many people know only by name– the Caucasus. It's a place where Europe and Asia meet, where geography is created with isolation and diversity, and where ancient history remains relevant even today. Learn more about the Caucasus and why it has mattered for thousands of years on this episode of Everything Everywhere Daily. This episode is sponsored by True Work. Working outside in the springtime means you're dealing with chilly mornings, hot afternoons and everything in between. Not to mention the mud, rain, whatever else the weather decides to throw at you. You need workwear that can keep up with the challenging conditions, and True Work has you covered. 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The Caucasus Mountains form a formidable barrier standing as Europe's southern wall. While the Urals mark Europe's official eastern boundary, the jagged southern wall of the Caucasus is even more imposing. Only 750 miles or 1200 kilometers long, much shorter than the Urals, the Caucasus boasts Mount Alboros, Europe's highest point, at 18,510 feet or 5,642 meters. From this peak you can see both Europe and Asia. The North Caucasus, which lies entirely within the Russian Federation, includes republics such as Chechnya, Dagestan and North Ossetia, while the southern Caucasus comprises the nations of Armenia, Azerbaijan, Georgia and some parts of Turkey. The different slopes of the mountain range have very different climate zones. The mountain's height shapes dramatic climate differences across the region. The mountain range has historically prevented invasions and shielded both sides from harsh weather. On the north side, the plains at the base of the range have harsh unforgiving winters, as they bear the brunt of arctic masses that can't climb over the peaks. Conversely, the south is shielded from arctic air and enjoys a much warmer, drier climate. Also the western slopes of the Black Sea are humid and lush, while the eastern Caspian Depression remains dry and sits within a rain shadow. Beyond its weather patterns, the Caucasus presents rugged terrain shaped by the intense impact of the Arabian and Eurasian tectonic plates colliding with each other. The world's focus centered on the Caucasus during the 2014 Winter Olympics hosted in Sochi, a Russian resort destination nestled between the Black Sea and the western Caucasus peaks. As a coastal city with a subtropical snow-free climate, Sochi presented a unique challenge for the Winter Olympics. But a solution to the dilemma was found in the region's remarkable diversity of geography and climate. While indoor competitions were held in Sochi, Alpine events were staged just 30 miles away in Krasnaya Polyana. Situated at an elevation of nearly 10,000 feet, Krasnaya Polyana provided the necessary cold and heavy snowfall that the seaside city lacked. Although the winter leading up to the Olympics was unusually warm, they stored over 450,000 cubic meters of snow from the previous winter under insulated thermal blankets in case there was insufficient snowfall. The Alpine region of the Caucasus has been described as being like Switzerland only without the roads. And it's worth noting that the Caucasus have eight peaks taller than Mont Blanc, the highest peak in the Alps. The region is also home to impressive river systems that carve deep canyons, such as Soljak Canyon, which is even deeper than the Grand Canyon. Aside from its magnificent climate diversity, the region also offers some very important locations. One of the most famous sites in the Caucasus is Turkey's Mount Ararat. The massive nearly 17,000 foot high active volcano was historically part of Armenia, but ceded to Turkey during the post-Ottoman disintegration. Despite now being a part of Turkey, Mount Ararat remains Armenia's national symbol, looming over the Armenian capital of Yerevan. Mount Ararat offers more than a majestic vista. It's steeped in history as it is supposedly the place where Noah's Ark came to rest. Due to its biblical significance, Mount Ararat has drawn a steady stream of pilgrims and explorers to its summit for thousands of years. The mountains are also home to myths and legends from other cultures. In Greek mythology, the gods punish Prometheus in the Caucasus Mountains. Greek and Georgian chroniclers place the site of Prometheus' punishment at Mount Kasbek in modern-day Georgia. To the ancient Greeks, the Caucasus represented the end of the world. Greek legends told of Prometheus being bound and chained near a cave in the Caucasus Mountains, where he was greeted each day by a giant eagle that flew down and tore out his liver, only to have it regenerate each day and to face the same torment for eternity. The 1983 discovery of ancient chains within the Kumastavi Cave on Mount Kasbek further deepened the mystery surrounding the site. While not the only cave in the region to lay claim to being the site of the mythical torture, it did inspire the Georgian government to rename the cave Prometheus Cave. Prometheus was not the only Greek legend with a connection to the Caucasus. In the epic Jason and the Golden Fleece, Jason and the Argonauts are drawn to the ancient kingdom of Colchis on an impossible quest. Colchis, which held the famed Golden Fleece, had to be claimed by Jason to restore his right to his father's kingdom. Located in modern-day Georgia, Colchis felt like the edge of the world to the ancient Greeks. Greek perceptions to the contrary. The Caucasus has always been a bridge between east and west. According to the British historian Peter Frankopan, the Caucasus acted as a type of central nervous system for global trade. From the Silk Road's origins, empires recognized the region as the vital key to controlling the flow of goods. The southern terminus of the Silk Roads ran through Persia. A region under constant siege by neighboring empires. In an effort to subvert Persian dominance of trade, the Roman emperor Trajan considered the Caucasus so significant that he launched a campaign to control it in the year 113. According to Frankopan, to achieve mastery of the entire world, Rome had to control the Caucasus. He notes, quote, Doing so involved moving against Persia and this became a common preoccupation of rulers. Grandious plans were developed to push the empire's frontier as far as the mountain pass known as the Caspian Gates deep inside Persian territory. Rome needed to control the heart of the world. End quote. The peaks provided ample protection against bandits that would plague the wide open spaces along the routes, making this a very popular location for silk road caravans arise. The Byzantine Empire also coveted the Caucasus. During the reign of Emperor Justinian, the Byzantines were locked in a constant state of war with the Sasanian Persian Empire. To bypass the Persian world and avoid their soaring taxes, Justinian sought a new route through the Caspian region. Building upon the foundations of earlier empires, Justinian fortified the Caspian Gate, a massive stone barrier designed to protect Byzantine trade interests and secure the Caucasus as their primary terminus on the Silk Road. The region encompassing Azerbaijan became a commercial hub with dozens of caravans arise, all located a half day's walk apart. Located near the Caspian Sea, Azerbaijan was a safe and secure hub for trade, with routes such as the Baku-Shekhi route along which merchants unloaded their goods and transported them over land. The region even became a center of silk production as they stopped transporting silk from China and began making it themselves. For over a millennium, a vast network of quants or ancient underground canals transformed the arid landscape into forests of mulberry trees, providing the food for silkworms originally smuggled out of China. At its height during the Safavid Dynasty, the region, particularly the Azari center of Sheki, was the dominant supplier of silk to southwest Asia and Europe. In addition to its vital role in the silk road trade, the Caucasus was also a major cultural center. The region became a center of languages and a crucial fault line for the spread of religion. Modern linguists call the Caucasus the mountain of tongues because of its linguistic diversity. Linguists now point to these mountains as a potential cradle for the Indo-European mother tongue, the ancestor of languages ranging from English and Spanish to Hindi and Persian. The region's rugged terrain allowed over 50 distinct ethnic groups to flourish in its secluded valleys. The historian Norman Davies said about the region's unique ethnic diversity, Quote, The Caucasus is not a border between two worlds, but a world unto itself. The region's connection to both East and West made it a vital center of religion. While there's some historical debate over the founder of Zoroastrianism's birthplace, there's no doubt about the significance of the Caucasus to the religion. The Caucasus boasts one of the planet's most surreal natural phenomenon. Subterranean gas leaks that ignite into eternal flames bursting directly from the earth. During Marco Polo's travels to the area, he was amazed at what he called oil fountains. Zoroastrians view fire as a symbol of purity and the goddess Ahura Mazda. Pilgrims from India, Persia and Central Asia would flock to the Caucasus to revel in these naturally occurring fire temples. Over time, devout followers transformed these natural wonders into formal temples of worship. Located in Azerbaijan, the temple of Ashtegah of Baku is a testament to the region's religious importance. The temple dates back to the 1600s, and the fire within the temple, fueled by escaping methane gas, had burned in perpetuity until the year 1969, when it was extinguished after extensive drilling in the area. The site became a foundation for Silk Road pilgrims, luring Hindus, Sikhs and Zoroastrians to nearby Caravan Sarai. Silk Road travelers to the region also reveled in one of its foundational contributions, wine. There is some evidence suggesting that the region may have been home to the world's first vintners, as the technology dates back more than 8,000 years. Historically the Caucasus has been defined by complex politics. Because of its proximity to vital trade routes and its position between dominant empires, the region became a strategic buffer zone. This role began as early as the Greco-Persian conflicts and persisted throughout the era of the Islamic caliphates. A complex relationship with Russia has also forged its development over the past several hundred years. Initially viewed as a key region in Russia's efforts to control a warm water port on the Black Sea, Russian dominion has challenged the region's development for centuries. The invention of the internal combustion engine, coupled with the discovery of vast oil reserves in the region in the late 19th century, has made it a coveted region during global conflicts. Hitler's Operation Edelweiss sought to not only crush the Soviet Union, but also gain control over the vast oil fields of Azerbaijan. The value of the region's oil is still evident today. Buried beneath the Caucasus, the Baku-Tbilisi-Ceyhan pipeline acts as a thousand-mile steel artery pumping a million barrels of oil every day towards Turkey. The Caucasus is a reminder that some of the world's most important places are not always the largest or most familiar. The Caucasus has been a crossroads of empires, an incubator for new religions and an important trade route for thousands of years. Even today, the Caucasus remains as strategically important and culturally rich as ever, proving that this rugged corner of the world has always mattered far more than its size might suggest. The executive producer of Everything Everywhere Daily is Charles Daniel. The associate producers are Austin Oetken and Cameron Kieffer. Research and writing for this episode was provided by Joel Hermanson. My big thanks go to everyone who supports the show over on Patreon. Your support helps make this podcast possible. 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